Explorers and Antarctic memories
Saturday, November 24th, 2007The picture of the sinking Antarctic cruise ship Explorer took me back to three years ago when my wife and I cruised the same waters on her larger sister, Explorer II.
Although we never felt in the sort of danger the smaller ship faced, it is a trip not without its risks. Walking on these lands can be hard going and on our first day’s landfall a German living in the Lake District collapsed and died. We also heard a week or two later that a yachtsman had fallen into a crevasse and been killed on the same island.
Still, it was a memorable trip, the best day being when we were in the centre of a school of 200 fin whales - the second largest breed - hunting krill. Wherever one looked there were spouts blowing as we stayed with them for hours.
We walked among the thousands of penguins and, more nervously, among the huge, ugly elephant seals clutching flat stones which we were told to clack together if they or any of the smaller seals showed aggressive intent.
The ship’s brochure said that no more than 200,000 people had ever set foot on the Antarctic continent, but I now read that 30,000 tourists a year visit the area. I can believe it because 30 cruise ships call in at the Falklands alone during the short Antarctic summer.
When we returned to the Argentinian port of Ushaia, Explorer - the one that capsiozed - was tied up at the quay. It looked minute, just as we must have looked to the huge German cruise ship moored next to us. Its flag was flying upside down, the international distress signal. My suggestion to our crew that we board her, right the flag, and claim salvage - up to a third of the value of the ship - was, unfortunately not taken up. Even shared with the crew it would have paid for a few more trips to the most dramatically inhospitable place on the planet.
The passnegers on Explorer were lucky; not only were they all saved but they will have holiday memories to dine out on for the rest of their lives.